Inside Tokyo’s Bar High Five – An Enduring Legacy of Craft and Hospitality
Tokyo, a city perpetually at the vanguard of global culinary and beverage trends, boasts a bar scene that continues to capture international acclaim. Its unwavering dedication to precision, artistry, and hospitality has firmly established it as a pilgrimage site for cocktail enthusiasts worldwide. Among the constellation of celebrated venues, several names consistently shine, underscoring the global fascination with Japanese bartending.
Virtù, housed within the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo, recently claimed the 11th spot on Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2024 and was honoured with the Michter’s Art of Hospitality Award — a testament to its exceptional service and creative flair. Other standouts include Bar Benfiddich, renowned for its ethereal, terroir-driven creations using ingredients from the owner’s own farm, and The SG Club, a dynamic, multi-level concept brought to life by the visionary Shingo Gokan. Seamlessly blending the edgy sophistication of New York with Tokyo’s meticulous finesse, The SG Club is a masterclass in cultural and conceptual fusion.
And then, there is Bar High Five — a true icon of Tokyo’s cocktail landscape. Be prepared to encounter a fair number of foreign faces here. It has become a well-trodden stop on the global cocktail tourism trail — but rest assured, it is still very much worth the visit.
Bar High Five – A Beacon of Bespoke Mixology
Tucked discreetly into a quiet corner of the upscale Ginza district, Bar High Five stands as a monument to Japanese bartending excellence. Since opening its doors in 2008, the intimate venue has garnered global recognition for its profoundly personal approach to mixology and its unwavering commitment to craftsmanship.
At the helm is the legendary Hidetsugu Ueno, whose journey began in 1992 under the guidance of Hisashi Kishi at the renowned Star Bar in Tokyo. There, Ueno-san refined his mastery of the “hard shake” , a technique he helped popularise, and perfected the precise, almost sculptura carving of diamond-shaped ice. In 2008, he struck out on his own, bringing with him a philosophy rooted in precision, genuine hospitality, and the art of creating a drink tailored entirely to the individual.
A Personalised Drinking Experience – Beyond the Menu
Bar High Five famously forgoes printed menus. Instead, guests are welcomed into a quiet dialogue about their flavour preferences, their mood, and the kind of experience they seek. This personal interaction allows Ueno and his exceptionally skilled team to craft drinks that resonate on a deeply individual level. Every visit becomes more than just a cocktail – it’s a unique, lasting memory rendered in liquid form. This approach speaks to something much deeper: the translation of personality into drink, a kind of portrait painted with every shake and stir.
Nurturing the Next Generation – A Global Apprenticeship in Contrast
Yet Bar High Five is more than a sanctuary for seasoned cocktail lovers. It is also a quietly powerful incubator for future talent. Through its coveted apprenticeship programme, the bar offers aspiring bartenders from across the globe the chance to immerse themselves in the subtle, rigorous world of Japanese bartending. This year, the recipient of the 2024 50 Best Bars Roku Scholarship will undergo intensive training at Bar High Five, further cementing its place as one of the world’s most respected bartending institutions.
My own experience with this commitment unfolded during a recent visit. I had, perhaps sentimentally, expected Bar High Five to still be perched on an upper floor – a memory from its earlier days. Instead, I descended into its modest basement setting and was greeted with immediate warmth. The atmosphere was elegant and international, the bar team a vibrant blend of European influences. And then, as if by some serendipitous twist, I caught sight of Ueno-san himself – quietly orchestrating, his every move deliberate, his presence subtly commanding.
As I made my way toward the bar, one name quietly surfaced in my mind: Kristin Giehl. We had met in Berlin, just before she embarked on her journey to Tokyo. She had told me about her upcoming internship at Bar High Five – a short-term adventure, she thought. I hadn’t expected to see her again, certainly not here. And then, there she was.
Kristin, now behind the bar, approached to explain the concept. A flicker of recognition passed between us. “Are you from Berlin?” I asked. “Did we meet at Hildegard Bar?” We were both unsure at first – the earlier encounter had been brief – but the joy of reconnecting, halfway across the world in Tokyo, was undeniable. Her story had evolved beautifully. What began as an internship had blossomed into a permanent position. Recognising her talent, Ueno-san had offered her a lasting role – and with it, the opportunity to call Tokyo home.
Two Philosophies, Two Worlds – Japan and Germany Behind the Bar
Kristin’s transition from Berlin to Tokyo is not just a professional move – it is a journey across two fundamentally different philosophies of bartending. Her experience vividly illustrates the contrast between structured vocational training in Germany and the immersive, master-apprentice culture in Japan.
In Germany, becoming a bartender can follow several routes. One of the most structured is the official apprenticeship programme (e.g. training as a restaurant specialist, training in hotel and restaurant management), typically lasting between 2.5 to 3.5 years. This dual system combines practical work in a hospitality venue with theoretical instruction at vocational school. Apprentices learn a wide range of regulated skills — from drink preparation and guest service to financial management – and graduate with a nationally recognised certificate. However, this isn’t the only way. Many bartenders enter the profession through paid courses, on-the-job learning, or self-teaching, reflecting a more flexible and decentralised system overall. The emphasis tends to be on building practical, transferable skills for the broader hospitality industry.
In Japan, however, the path is rooted in the centuries-old deshi-iri tradition. This is not a curriculum, but an ethos. Bartending apprentices may spend years observing a master in near silence, absorbing everything through careful watching. Tasks begin with the humblest of duties – cleaning, polishing, hand-carving ice – and may remain so for months or even years before being trusted with a shaker. There is no certificate, no official milestone. The apprentice’s readiness is judged only by the master. It is a test of patience, humility, and character. This path is shaped by the principles of shokunin (lifelong pursuit of perfection), kodawari (attention to detail), and omotenashi (selfless, anticipatory hospitality). In Japan, bartending is not a job. It’s a vocation. An art. A life.
This comparison is, of course, only a brief sketch – not a comprehensive study. But it highlights the distinct cultural philosophies behind the craft. And it shows that while the routes may differ, the destination is the same: excellence in the art of hospitality.
In an age increasingly driven by fast trends and mass appeal, Bar High Five stands quietly apart – a place where tradition, precision, and deep personal commitment come together in every glass. Even with tourists queuing for a seat, the soul of the bar remains intact. Because true craftsmanship, no matter how sought after, cannot be replicated. It must be lived.
