Sip by Sip | Tainan – Taiwan’s Ancient Capital, Modern Cocktail Haven
Tainan, Taiwan’s oldest city and former capital, is a mesmerising blend of cultural heritage, ancient temples, vibrant street art, and legendary street food. As I wandered through its labyrinthine alleys, I was drawn in by the city’s relaxed charm and timeless rhythm. But beyond the historical richness and culinary buzz, Tainan is fast becoming one of Taiwan’s most exciting destinations for cocktails.
Long overshadowed by Taipei’s international profile, Tainan is now confidently stepping into its own as a regional cocktail hub. What captivated me most this time wasn’t just the calibre of the drinks—it was the city’s effortless ability to merge tradition with creativity, and its quietly confident, welcoming atmosphere. A definite favourite on this trip.
This article is part of my ongoing series, “Sip by Sip | My Cocktail Journey Through Taiwan”, where I explore the island’s evolving cocktail culture, one city at a time. From back-alley speakeasies to award-winning bars, each instalment offers a glimpse into the people, places, and flavours shaping Taiwan’s unique mixology movement.
👉 [Read Part 1 Kaohsiung]
Tainan’s Mixology Maestros | Building a Bar Culture
The rise of Tainan’s cocktail scene is deeply rooted in the vision and dedication of its bartenders—people who aren’t just mixing drinks, but nurturing a community.
One name that repeatedly surfaces in conversations is Huang Yi-hsiang, affectionately known as Axiang. As the founder of Bar TCRC (established in 2008), he played a pioneering role in shaping the city’s cocktail landscape. His journey began in 2005, inspired by William Wang’s influential bartending book. In 2011, Huang placed fifth in the Taiwan Region World Class Bartending Competition, and more recently, was honoured as “Bartender’s Bartender” at the 2024 Taiwan Bar Awards.
More than just an award-winner, Huang is a mentor. Many of TCRC’s former bartenders have gone on to open their own bars, creating a ripple effect that continues to expand Tainan’s cocktail culture. The city’s bar scene is marked not by rivalry, but by collaboration, mentorship, and shared roots—a rare and powerful dynamic.
Tainan’s Cocktail Identity | Where Craft Meets Culture
Tainan’s cocktail scene has developed a distinct identity—one shaped by its laid-back atmosphere, deep cultural roots, and a quiet confidence that favours substance over flash. What makes this city stand out is not just the quality of its drinks, but the intention behind them.
Small Spaces, Big Character
Many of Tainan’s best bars are hidden behind unmarked doors, tucked down side streets, or located in restored heritage buildings. These compact, often minimalist venues create an atmosphere of intimacy and calm—a reflection of the city’s slower pace and human-scale charm.
Flavours That Speak of Place
From tea-infused spirits to seasonal fruits, aged black vinegar to candied roselle, Tainan’s bartenders are deeply connected to local ingredients. The result is cocktails that don’t just taste good—they tell a story of place, season, and cultural memory.
Design Meets Storytelling
Bars like Kohaku and Moonrock integrate visual art, sound, and interior design into the cocktail experience. These are not just drinks, but multi-sensory narratives, shaped as much by emotion and atmosphere as by flavour.
A Community That Grows Together
Tainan’s bar scene is defined by mentorship and mutual support. Industry leaders like Huang Yi-hsiang of Bar TCRC have helped cultivate a new generation of bartenders, many of whom now run their own award-winning venues. The result is a scene that’s growing organically—grounded in shared experience, not competition.
The Perfect Pairing: Cocktails and Cuisine
Food is more than an afterthought in Tainan’s top bars. Menus are thoughtfully designed to complement cocktails, from refined European dishes to elevated local classics. It’s a complete experience—one where drink and dish meet in quiet harmony.
Bar TCRC – The Pioneer’s Temple
I haven’t made it there yet on this visit—but Bar TCRC remains a cornerstone of Tainan’s cocktail story. Short for The Checkered Record Club, it helped ignite the city’s bar scene from a modest space chosen for its affordable rent. The converted townhouse has since gained acclaim, earning spots on Asia’s 50 Best Bars in 2016 and 2018. Today, TCRC is known for its expertly crafted drinks, its vast whisky selection (over 300 bottles stacked floor to ceiling), and its unpretentious yet polished vibe. A true pioneer’s temple—and still, by all accounts, essential.
Kohaku – Where Sound Meets Flavour [read more]
Recently celebrating its first anniversary, Kohaku offers a minimalist space filled with soft colour palettes and calming design. The bar stands out not just for its drinks, but for its audio-visual storytelling approach—each cocktail accompanied by thoughtful design and sound, turning the act of ordering into an experience.
Moonrock – A Moonlit Retreat of Elegance [read more]
Tucked away in a quiet residential neighbourhood, Moonrock is marked only by a dark red iron door and a glowing moon logo. Step inside and you’ll find a refined sanctuary with red brick corridors, warm lighting, and a carefully layered interior that channels both tea house tranquillity and modern elegance. Moonrock was awarded Best Bar in the South at the 2024 Taiwan Bar Awards and earned a spot on Asia’s 50 Best Bars list. Deservedly so.
From the moment I stepped in, it felt like coming home. The conversation flowed easily with the owner and fellow guests. The bartenders were welcoming, the music was subtle, and the atmosphere was quietly confident—like the bar knew exactly what it was and didn’t need to prove it. One small detail I love beside the perfect drinks? The chairs. Not the usual high bar stools, but comfortable, grounded seats—adding another layer of intimacy to the experience.
Moonrock’s drinks are precise and poetic, with contemporary cocktail techniques used to highlight the best of Taiwan’s native ingredients. Just like my first visit two years ago, I knew I’d return—and I’m glad I did.
Standout drinks:
- Poem M – A crisp, icy cocktail of whisky, miso, hazelnut, apple, red shiso, and CO₂. Refined and invigorating.
- Mehita – Tequila, longan, RIEN, corn, lime, pandan leaf, topped with a whisper of parmesan cheese. Soft, savoury, and unexpected.
- Moondust and Motion – Inspired by a large artwork above the bar shelves by Taiwanese artist Peter Liao (also a key contributor to the Moonrock project), this drink combines gin, mango leaf, Suze, tana seed, smoked grape, balsamic, and lemon marigold. Bold, elegant, and grounded in art and friendship.
Bar Lonely – The Art of Bespoke Cocktails in Tainan
Tucked away in a quiet alley and housed in an old Japanese-style home, Bar Lonely is one of Tainan’s most intimate and thoughtfully curated bars. With its soft lighting, dark leather seating, and marble-topped tables, it offers a quiet refuge from the outside world—true to its motto: “If you feel lonely, you can come to Bar Lonely.”
During my visit, a special themed menu titled “Bar Lonely Time Machine” explored Japan’s Showa, Heisei, and Reiwa eras through music and memory. I tried “M”, inspired by PRINCESS PRINCESS’s 1988 hit. It was a sophisticated twist on a Zombie: dark rum and high-proof bourbon blended with Tieguanyin tea, homemade falernum, fermented pineapple juice, and a striking espuma of tomato, passion fruit, and hot sauce. Complex, layered, and full of character.
Another standout was a bold reimagining of the Piña Colada, titled “A Cup of Taiwan’s Welcome Drink to the World.” Using 38° Golden Gate sorghum liquor (a close cousin of Baijiu) as its base, it layered Taiwanese flavours like caramelised cream, pineapple, oolong tea, and spice in a cocktail that felt like a heartfelt tribute to local culture—both strong and soft, nostalgic and modern.
Bar Lonely doesn’t try to impress with theatrics. It wins you over with depth, subtlety, and quiet craft—an experience that’s as personal as it is unforgettable.
Swallow – A Day-to-Night Dream in Tainan
I was on my way back to my apartment when I decided to make one last stop at Swallow—just around the corner, and highly recommended by the couple sitting next to me earlier at Moonrock. Their advice? “Don’t leave Tainan without trying the Mango.”
Opened in 2022 by Mei Chiu and Dan Zhang, Swallow blends café culture with mixology, open from 9 a.m. with cocktails served all day. It’s housed in a century-old shophouse in one of Tainan’s oldest alleys and features a beautifully composed interior: front bar, open-air courtyard, and quiet rear lounge.
I ordered the Mango—a carbonated blend of Naked Malt whisky, Riesling, and dried-mango kombucha. Bright, lightly tropical, and perfectly balanced. The bartender was warm and conversational, making the stop feel like more than just a drink—it was a pause in time.
Swallow captures something essential about modern Tainan: relaxed, refined, and gently pushing boundaries.
Other Notable Tainan Bars
Tainan’s cocktail scene continues to expand with a growing list of venues that reflect the city’s creative spirit.
- Bar Alter – Known for its Han-jia Pairing Dinner, a refined food-and-cocktail experience.
- Slow Down – Named one of the Top 20 Bars of the Year at the Taiwan Bar Awards 2024.
- LOLA 蘿拉冷飲店 – A nostalgic, vintage-style bar with vinyl records and drinks like the Yoko (plum wine, green tea, vodka).
- T-Bar MRLC – Specialises in tea-infused spirits and seasonal fruit cocktails, all delivered with precision and care.
My recent revisit confirmed what I’ve long suspected: Tainan is one of Taiwan’s most exciting cocktail cities. The consistency across bars, the genuine hospitality, and the continued innovation in flavour and concept make it a destination worth sipping through. These bars don’t just serve drinks—they tell stories, honour local heritage, and quietly redefine what modern mixology can be.
Final Sip | Tainan’s Quiet Revolution
Tainan’s cocktail scene is a quiet revolution—less show, more soul. It doesn’t shout to be seen, but it lingers with you long after the last sip.
From the pioneering influence of Bar TCRC to the sensory storytelling at Kohaku and the poetic elegance of Moonrock, Tainan proves that great cocktails don’t just belong in the capital. They belong wherever there are stories to be told, memories to distil, and communities ready to raise the bar—together.
Whether you’re a seasoned connoisseur or a curious traveller, Tainan deserves a spot on your cocktail map.
